Thank you everyone for all of your kind comments on my recent Fall Home Tour. As promised here is A Downton Abbey Inspired Dress.
I have mentioned a few times that I am a member of the D/FW Costumers Guild. We attend several events a year together. An early fall outing was planned to attend Monet At The Kimball. The exhibit focused on the artists’ last works from 1913 to 1926. I decided to create a dress style from the late Edwardian/early teens era. As such a dress would take a bit of time and effort to create I wanted something that would also be perfect for an outing to see the Downton Abbey film.
What Color?
First things first. Selecting a color that would best represent Downton. There was one shade that was used over and over throughout the series.
But since this dress was to be worn in the early fall I wondered if it should be a shade warmer, smokier… even DARKER.
Late Edwardian Style
With the color palette selected the focus then turned to what style the dress should be. Two years ago I made a green Edwardian dress similar to what Lady Sybil is wearing on the far right.
Something a bit different was in order. Maybe a high-waisted gown like what Lady Edith is donning on the left. But a long sleeve would be more age-appropriate. Perhaps a style to resemble what is worn by Lady Mary on the right.
But did such a dress exist? I do like to be somewhat historically accurate.
Dinner dress by Drecoll, Les Modes July 1911.
YES! So now, I just needed to find a pattern.
French writer and poet Jehanne d’Orliac Les Modes July 1911.
Butterick Pattern B6190
I selected the Butterick Pattern B6190. It is listed as an advanced pattern and I would agree with that. The pieces went together fairly smoothly. I did, however, have a bit of difficulty with the one-piece skirt placket. It’s still not right. Luckily the unfinished seam is on the inside so the mistake is not visible.
Fabric Selections
With the color and pattern selected I began a search through my fabric stash to see what I had on hand. Longtime readers know that my costumes are made VERY frugally from fabric I source from thrift shops and estate sales.
The search revealed:
- A bit of simple white muslin for the bodice lining.
- A long curtain panel in classic late 80’s dusty rose. The rayon/cotton blend was reminiscent of bengaline (woven silk-and-cotton) or faille (woven from silk, cotton, or rayon with slight ribs) which would be suitable for the era.
- A circa 1950’s white organdy skirt with several rips and tears. Perfect for the sleeve detail and overlay!
I know what you are thinking. Those fabrics are nowhere near the burgundy/maroon/wine/eggplant color family.
The first step was to hand dye the organdy and muslin a rose pink to get it closer to matching the curtain panel.
Ok, don’t panic!
The fabric was then hand-dyed a purple but still not quite right. So it was hand-dipped in eggplant dye which resulted in the color shown below.
While the organdy and faille aren’t a perfect match they are tonally in the same color family.
Pattern Alterations
Two of the pattern alterations that were made are fairly easy to see. I lengthened the sleeves and opted to not to have an overskirt.
I did sew the overskirt from the extra organdy lace fabric but it just didn’t look right. It made me feel like Violet Beauregarde.
The pattern recommends a drapey fabric. Since I used a heavier weight faille the waist sash did not drape as shown in the pattern photo. For that reason, I reinforced the pleated look by sewing down the top pleat. Since it was visible I used a decorative stitch that mimicked the overlay. I also did a basic stitch hidden within a few of the pleats. One pleat was folded down in the photo so you can see the stitching.
The pattern also recommends hand sewing numerous hook and eye closures. If you were following my Instagram stories last week I shared that the morning of the event I was STILL sewing. Covered buttons and machine sewn buttonholes were a much faster option while still being historically accurate.
The fabric flowers and leaf placed at the back was also my own design touch.
A Downton Abbey Inspired Dress
I am pretty pleased with how the dress turned out.
My sweet son took the photographs. He is doing fairly well for one so young.
It should be noted that to achieve the “right line” of the dress I am also wearing a long line corset as well as a narrow petticoat and stockings.
I think the details found on the back of the dress might be my favorite.
Dollars and Cents
- 1/2 yard of muslin for the bodice lining $1.25 (Joann’s)
- One spool of thread $1.49 (Hobby Lobby)
- 2 yards of vintage organdy .25 cents (estate sale, only the border was used)
- One vintage curtain panel 3 yards, 60″ wide $3.00 (estate sale)
- Butterick Pattern B6190 $1.99 (Joann’s)
- One box of Rit pink dye $1.48 (Walmart)
- One bottle of Rit purple dye $2.98 (Walmart)
- One bottle of Rit eggplant dye $2.98 (Walmart)
Grand Total: $15.42
It’s almost unbelievable, isn’t it?
So here is the disclaimer:
I am always on the lookout for lovely vintage fabric, trims, and notions at estate sales and thrift shops. The fantastic finds are cleaned and stored in the sewing closet until a perfect project comes up. Shopping in this manner is better for the environment. I am a proud member of #costumersforclimateaction. By using vintage materials it helps to avoid unhealthy business and environmental practices found in today’s fast fashion. They include child labor, low wages, illegal dumping of dyes/chemicals, and more. Another benefit is that generally vintage materials are MUCH better quality than today’s offerings. The biggest bonus is that it is wonderful on the wallet.
But shopping in this manner is an investment of time.
It is hard to put a price on that.
The total also obviously doesn’t include labor. The dress and headwrap took approximately 20 hours to create.
If I were sewing for someone else what is a fair price to charge? Everyone’s worth may have a different price tag. How much does the average seamstress make per hour? A quick search online for such a skill is around $20 an hour. That would add $400 to the dress. Gulp.
But $400 for a couture gown is still a GRAND BARGAIN.
So start stitching!
Accessories
The headwrap is also included in the pattern. It was very easy to make.
The crocheted gloves are vintage.
Oh, and what did all of my other fellow costumers wear to the exhibit?
I’m sure you’d love to see them.
However, I think today’s post is long enough.
I’ll share their costumes on Monday.
Laura
You can find a list of my other Historic Costuming and Modern Fashion posts HERE.
Wow, again a stunning dress. Your sewing talents are amazing. You can create anything – I am sure of that. Love this new dress and your pictures are all gorgeous.
I love your creation! It is very similar to my wedding dress. I think you have inspired me to take sewing lessons. My last attempt was at age 10 when I made a knit shirt with a puppy pattern. (Please remember that I was ten!) Unfortunately, the puppies on the sleeves were going the wrong way!
You are an amazing seamstress. Your dress is stunning and your photos are lovely.
Beautiful, beautiful! I can very much appreciate the labor, skill research and overall time you put into this, Laura.
It’s a lovely dress, and I admire your skills at sewing and pulling it all togteher so frugally. And though it looks like a period style, it’s not so “out there” that you couldn’t use it for non-period functions, too. Great job!
Gorgeous! You are a talented lady. I wonder how far I’ll need to drive to see the movie???
Wow Wow Wow — your seamstress talents never cease to amaze me, Laura! I don’t sew at all but always love seeing what you create. So beautiful!
Totally Gorgeous ! Wear and enjoy! It is priceless.
So excited to see the final results after the little sneak peeks last week! Your dress is gorgeous and you really look good in purple. That hat and necklace are the cherry on top!
Most lovely. The dress and the model are stunning. 🙂
Your dress is so beautiful! I love the attention to detail you add to each item you sew. Dying the fabric and choosing the material to drape properly. Your seamstress skills are obvious with your talent in adjusting patterns to suit your vision and finished garment. I took sewing lessons once upon a time with a highly skilled and well trained seamstress from Europe. She was constantly reminding us the difference in the finished garment is determined by the details you put into it. Pressing seams. stay-stitching, the lining, the zippers and button holes. No skimping on any little detail, no matter how much you thought it might never show or matter. I see the care you put into your outfits and projects.
All of you look so sweet and feminine in your lovely gowns. Thank you so much for sharing your work.
That’s a beautiful dress, Laura, and I’m impressed and inspired by your resourcefulness. I particularly love that you hand dyed your fabrics. You’ve got me thinking….
Your sewing skills never cease to amaze me. I used to be a pretty good seamstress myself when my children were little and I made all of their clothing as well as my own, but pfffft – I was an amateur compared to you. I agree that the back side of your dress is the most interesting, and the flower and leaf fabric roses at the back waist and on the hat are an inspiration. Also, I rather like that the various fabrics didn’t dye exactly the same -it adds to the vintage look.
P.S. You also have perfect face and hair for that style of hat.
I love this and was thinking, If I were young, I would have a Downton Abbey themed wedding! I would also suggest that the guests could wear similar
styled clothes ! The possibilities are endless, food choices, music, decore…
Thank you for this great blog!
Not only is it exquisite and not only do you look fabulous in it, but I really adore all the details you shared about your thought process, the preparing the fabric, the research — the whole bit. Things like that are what really intrigue me and make this kind of post a favorite!
Amazing job! I’d like to see the dress with a great big side sways swooping hat with flowers underneath.
I love your buddy with her pouter-pigeon bodice. Very realistic.
I hope the movie event lives up to your efforts!
Your dress turned out beautifully, Laura! I am finally working on converting that yellow 1990’s dress into something similar. I went in search of patterns today at Joann’s and picked up the Butterick pattern.
I found a gold crushed polyester for the skirt and body and I think the two will look good together. Looking forward to Downton Abbey coming out this next weekend!!!
Love how you dyed the fabric to match. Great job!!
Barb
Wonderful job! I love that you shop the estate sales to reuse fabric, so smart and good for the environment. I love the eggplant color on you, it looks lovely! Blessings, Loni
Your dress is fabulous! I think the high waisted dress is a style that looks wonderful on nearly everyone whether done in a bygone era or in a current creation. I envy your sewing skills.
Wonderful dress and amazing post! Happy Pink Saturday!
Your dress is divine.
Gorgeous dress! You look spectacular!
You are beautiful and amazing! I am so happy to feature you at TFT this week.
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This dress is exquisite! You are so very talented!
Laura, have I told you that you are a never-ending source of amazement to me. The dress is stunning, and so are you.
Happy Pink Saturday. Thank you for joining us to make Pink Saturdays special. This post is being featured on my Pink Saturday post this week as “the one that caught my eye”.♥♥♥