Sewing A 1950s Patio Dress

Hello sweet friends and Happy Fashion Friday! You may have noticed that I am only posting a new outfit and video every other week. This is an effort of me trying to be kinder to myself. Sewing a complete garment, documenting the process and producing a post with accompanying video is truly a labor of love. To do it on a weekly basis required working 12+ hour days often 6 days a week. By reducing the output I now hope to create garments that are even more detailed and special. Such as Sewing A 1950s Patio Dress.

Sewing A 1950s Patio Dress

I first became familiar with Patio Dresses when I was attending Costume College a few years ago. I began chatting with a lovely woman who has since become a treasured friend. She was wearing the most incredible dress and I needed to know more. 

Tanya told me all about patio dresses. She has created quite a few over the years. You can see some her creations on her blog as well as her Instagram. She also has a wonderful vintage pattern shop on Etsy. 

I fell down a fashion rabbit hole learning all I could about the garment. 

The Patio Dress began as a regional style in the American Southwest in the late 1940’s and became a beloved closet staple in the 1950s.

It could consist of a one piece dress or a two piece skirt and blouse set. The defining feature is a full, tiered skirt. The dresses or skirt sets are generally heavily embellished with metallic rick rack and trim. 

The style of the neckline and sleeve can vary. 

Rounded and v neck styles were popular. 

You could find several different types of ready to wear styles. This ad is from the Sears Christmas Book in 1954.

Many women made their own. There are vintage patterns galore of the style on Etsy and eBay. This gem features a popular collared style. 

Simplicity has recently just rereleased this pattern as number S937.

Lloyd Henri “Kiva” New

The style of the dress definitely has it roots in Native American and Hispanic style attire. One can clearly see the influence of Navajo dress and Western Apache Camp Dresses that often feature a pleated or “broomstick” skirt.

The fully gathered, three-tiered skirt is also often worn by ladies living in various South American countries. 

I myself made my dress to wear to a celebration of Mr. Decor’s Panamanian heritage. These are Panamanian Pollera gowns. These gorgeous dresses deserve a post all of their own. So look for that in the future. 

One designer at the forefront of the style was Cherokee designer Lloyd Henri “Kiva” New. He played an important role in the revolution of Native customary clothing design in the mid-century. New worked in textile arts, leatherwork, and fashion design. In December of 1945 he opened his own Scottsdale boutique.

This video about his art and influence is truly interesting. 

Vogue V8789

For my dress I decided to use Vogue Pattern V8789, View A. It went together very easily. I would classify the pattern as intermediate due to the v neckline and zipper insertion. 

The rating also applies if you decide to add yards upon yards of trim to the bodice and hem. 

It took a few tries to get everything evenly spaced on the front and back of the V neckline as well as at the hem. Don’t look to close. 

But overall I feel such JOY when wearing this dress!

They are definitely eye catching and several people came up to me asking about the style. 

Because I was traveling when the dress was worn for these photos I wore only a small slip underneath. It is fabulous when worn with a fuller petticoat.

I do recommend adding thread loops to the sides of the bodice to hold the wide sash in place. It has a tendency to ride up a bit which you can see in this week’s video.

This Week’s Video

There are puppy shenanigans and even a little Dirty Dancing ala Baby on the dock in this week’s video. You won’t want to miss it!

I’ll see you on Sunday!

Laura