A Dress For Walnut Grove

Hello sweet friends! I have just returned from a lovely Little House event. I had made A Dress For Walnut Grove to wear. Several of you had spied it in an Instagram video and have asked for the pattern information and sewing details.

Martha Pattern

For the dress I used the Martha pattern from the Domestic Lady’s Dressmaker. This historically accurate design dates to the years 1868-1872. I created the housedress design that is shown in the center.

All of Marna Jean Davis’ patterns are based on extant (antique) clothing. I was very lucky to attend a historic dressmaking class by Mrs. Davis a few years ago. She has tremendous knowledge in the areas of pioneer living, clothing, and more.

I would classify this pattern as intermediate to advanced. A beginner would probably need assistance from a more experienced sewist to complete a dress.

NOTE: All three dresses in the pattern are meant to be worn with period appropriate undergarments. I wore a chemise, petticoat and corset underneath my dress.

The Fabric

The fabric used for the dress is a reproduction quilting cotton from the 1980s. It is not quite historically correct.

You do see similar colors and patterns on page 89 and 91 in Dating Fabrics ~ A Color Guide 1800-1960 by Eileen Jahnke Trestain.

Using the pioneer mentality of use what you have I opted to overlook that it’s not quite right since there was enough yardage.

Piping

The pattern does recommend piping which is historically accurate. Piping was generally added to back seams, armscyes, necklines and other high wear areas to increase the strength of the fabric. I have seen dresses made with both self fabric, meaning the fabric used for the piping is the same as the dress, or another fabric. As I wanted the piping to pop a bit as a design feature I made the 100% cotton piping by hand in a coordinating Kona cotton.

The fabric was cut on the bias and cotton cording that I have had for years was used within.

A Timeline

The Ingalls family lived in Walnut Grove, Minnesota between the years 1874 – 1876 and 1877 – 1879. Laura Ingalls Wilder wrote about Walnut Grove in the book On The Banks of Plum Creek.

For complete historical accuracy this dress pattern would align more with the timeline of the Little House in the Big Woods and Little House on the Prairie books.

But given that I still have a few things hanging in my closet from my college days I thought perhaps Caroline might also have a dress from a few years back.

Let’s Talk Accessories First

I did see a bit of chatter on various social sites from some individuals who did not care for the hat worn by the brilliant actress Megan Follows in her role as my great great great grandmother, Laura Colby Ingalls, in the new Netflix adaption.

But it is absolutely a hat that might have been worn in 1869.

We know from the Little House book series that Caroline Ingalls braided oat straw and sewed it into hats for the family. (Was there anything our dear Ma couldn’t do?)

My friend and brilliant historian Anna Worden wrote a nice article if you’d like more information on straw hats of the period. Anna is a wonderful milliner (hatmaker) who is a master of her craft.

My reproduction straw hat came from a millinery store in Gettysburg, PA several years ago.

The basket is from Fortnum & Mason, a British company that has been in business since 1707.

The Apron

The apron was made with the “Ma’s Apron” pattern from my upcoming LITTLE HOUSE ON THE PRAIRIE™ pattern line.

The pattern collection should be released in the next week or two so stay tuned!

There are two apron lengths in the pattern. I am wearing the longer length.

This is a size inclusive design and will fit most people.