Susan Greene Costume Collection Archives

Hello sweet friends, I want to welcome you to what is probably my most favorite Fashion Friday post that I have ever penned. It features a recent visit I made to the Susan Greene Costume Collection Archives which is located at the Genesee Country Village and Museum.

Susan Greene Costume Collection Archives

In yesterday’s post I featured the grounds of the glorious museum site. 

The post closed with an image taken by my friend Anneliese in which I am absolutely losing my mind at the glorious beauty that this amazing collection holds. 

So, how did I get so lucky?

I have followed the extremely talented Anneliese on both her blog and Instagram channel, Young Sewphisticate, for a long time. Anneliese has worked at this wonderful museum for 9 years. I had let her know that I would be in the area and wanted to come visit.

I had absolutely no idea that she would graciously arrange for me to meet Mr. Brandon Brooks who is the curator at the John L. Wehle Gallery. 

Dear Anneliese, my giddy self and the amazing Brandon!

I was led into a climate controlled space that contained racks upon racks of Susan Green’s Costume Collection.

Susan and Bruce Greene

The collection amassed by the Greene’s is nothing short of spectacular. Mr. Bruce R. Greene was a junior and senior high school art instructor for many years. Upon his retirement he became a full time potter. Hillbottom Pottery was sold at both his own shop as well as several other regional stores. Mrs. Susan W. Greene also taught art instruction for a time, holds a Master of Arts degree in historic costume and textiles from Cornell University and is a well-known authority in costume study. 

You may be familiar with Mrs. Greene’s award winning book, Wearable Prints, 1760-1860: History, Materials, and Mechanics as well as Textiles for Early Victorian Clothing.

The curator of this fabulous collection and my dashing tour guide, Brandon. 

The Greene’s began collecting period clothing in 1976. They focused on clothing worn by middle-class Americans from 1780 through 1880. The pieces range from everyday wear to Sunday best. Their collection grew to include over  3,500 clothing items for men, women, and children. The collection became so large that it was sent to the museum. It is truly a major primary research resource. I will share how important viewing this collection is to me further down in the post. 

Magpie

At the beginning of the tour my Magpie tendencies were drawn to shiny and sparkly things. 

Such as this watered silk Bicentennial celebration gown with it’s Watteau back and gorgeous sleeves. 

As well as this confection perfect for the upcoming autumnal season. 

This stunning hand painted silk was truly a sight to behold.

A gorgeous day bodice set was first shown to me.

It had such delicate silk lace.

It also had a matching evening bodice. 

Perhaps some longtime readers might remember seeing something similar?

However, I now realize that I did not make near enough of a floofy headpiece. 

Look at the superb details on this fan front bodice dress. 

Then I was led to the Regency section. Mr. Decor was on standby to catch me if I swooned as we took a turn about the room. 

I could not get over the Van Dyke points and tiny hand stitches on this aquamarine gem.

Of course we need dancing slippers to go with it. 

Colorful Cotton

The cheery cotton prints really made my heart sing!

I was amazed at the vibrancy of the colors.

Magical Drawers

In addition to the racks of tantalizing textiles there were several magical drawers.

I now know what I am going to do with a scrap of cream watered taffeta.

Men’s Hats

Embroidered Party Aprons 

Parasols

Even a beaded jump rope. Can you imagine anything more jolly and whimsical?

Then I Came To My Senses

When the drawers of sunbonnets were pulled out and I spied the cream slatted sunbonnet I finally came to my senses. 

As some of you know for the past 5 years I have been writing a labor of love. 

It is a book of historical fashions based on the descriptions from the Little House stories written by Laura Ingalls Wilder. 

Most of the research, sewing, photography and writing (all done by me) has been finished. I am in the final stages of proof reading and making sure the research for the garments is supported with sources and citations. 

Here was an amazing opportunity that fell into my lap that would help support my research. I cannot even begin to tell you the GIFT that this was. Not just for me, but perhaps anyone who may read this book in the future once it is published. 

Look at this scalloped and corded sunbonnet!

One of the sunbonnets in my book does button up the back. When opened, the sunbonnet is able to be laid flat for ease in ironing. 

Pioneering Prairie Fashions

I then specifically asked to be shown garments from the 1870s and 1880s. This is the time period that the Little House books are set.

An everyday wash dress. I created two of these for the book based on Laura’s writings. 

These next two basque bodices and skirts filled my heart with glee.

You can read the details on my Natural Form Pioneer Work Dress HERE.

I absolutely loved this asymmetrical bodice, skirt and overskirt. 

I had not seen such a front closure before.

The back of the bodice featured decorative detailing that I found so charming. 

But Wait, There’s More!

If you’re wondering if you can see some of the clothing collection at the museum the answer is YES!

There are two large rooms with gorgeous displays that change regularly. 

Loved these Ladies of Action.

There are even magic drawers that the public can open. 

You know I’m always mad for plaid. 

The current exhibit examines how far fashion came in the 19th century.

To see exuberant Regency era clothing placed next to somber Edwardian suiting was so fascinating.

The exhibit also covered how gender applied to fashions for children.

This display case features clothing for boys. 

I have also touched on this subject when I wrote two posts to include: Victorian Infant Undergarments Pioneer Baby Clothes.

As well as Real Men Wear Calico.

My favorite item displayed was this fabulous Regency jacket and vest. I see Mr. Decor wearing something similar in the future. Give me ALL the plaid!

I often make myself crazed by trying to pattern match. This jacket gives me a license to relax. 

Lastly, these embroidered suspenders for men caught my eye.

Charles “Pa” Ingalls received something similar as a Christmas gift in The Long Winter. 

Building A Supportive Community

When I first began sewing historical fashions a few years ago I was snubbed by a stitch counter who informed me that the print on my Regency era gown was far too busy of a print and my dress could not even remotely be considered historically accurate. (I didn’t ask for their opinion, it was just given.) To say that as a new sewist I was crushed would be accurate. Even though it’s been a few years, I can still feel the sting of that encounter. 

So I tried not to feel smug validation when I beheld this jewel. 

Obviously, I have failed. 

History Is For Everyone

This simple dress only reinforces my own thoughts on why it is important to build a strong, inclusive historical fashion community.

No one person can know everything in terms of historical accuracy. People spend years earning Doctorate Degrees in the study of historical textiles and fashions. But it is truly a never ending rabbit hole of knowledge. We learn new things everyday. I imagine (and hope) that there is still clothing sitting in a trunk in someone’s attic. Perhaps when it is finally revealed it might debunk a theory that has been long held to for years. Whatever that may be.  

In my work with students if I am asked, I try to help guide and/or recommend fabric choices and patterns for various time periods of fashion. However, I am smart enough to know that I know very little. I have only begun to dip my toe into the waters of historical fashion. 

In addition, I’ve learned that not everyone has the budget to afford silks and wools. But this should not be a point of exclusion from the community. The glorious collection of cotton clothing pieces that I saw should give an open invitation for all to join in. Truly, fabric content should have no bearing on the fun that people, with a love for historical fashion, can have in getting together. History is for everyone. 

From the bottom of my heart I would like to thank Mrs. Greene, Anneliese and Brandon, as well as the Genesee Country Village & Museum for such a fabulous learning opportunity. It is a thrill to be able to share with you, dear readers, only a small snippet of what the museum has to offer. I encourage you to visit soon to learn more. 

Laura