Hello, my friends! Welcome to a historical edition of Fashion Friday. This week’s project is An 1880’s Bustle Overskirt.
An 1880’s Bustle Overskirt
One of the first historically-accurate garments I created in 2018 was an 1880’s Traveling Suit. I always meant to add additional trim as well as make an apron overskirt.
The overskirt design I am wearing at the top of the post can be found in several fashion plates from the early 1880s. It was a popular style during the transitional period of 1882 -1884 when the bustle was reintroduced after a period of the unsupported skirts featured in the Natural Form Era, 1877-1882.
I had written about the Natural Form Era in this STYLE POST.
My natural form dress was shared in THIS POST.
Truly Victorian V365 August Overskirt
The pattern that I used was the Truly Victorian V365 August Overskirt. The design dates to 1883.
As a visual learner, I often find the Truly Victorian patterns lacking for my learning style. The patterns rely heavily on written instructions. However, the front of the overskirt went together fairly smoothly. The front gored apron features pleats at the side seams that provide the draped swag appearance.
The back of the overskirt is supposed to have large poufs that are held in place by tapes. While the pattern lists 3/4 yards netting as “optional” I would say it is probably greatly needed. The instructions did not show how to add the netting so I opted not to use it. I think the lack of support results in a look that falls flat.
It is possible that the support tapes are not tied in the correct manner. So I must also consider user error. Again there were not clear diagrams listed in the pattern. As I have never created a bustle/apron overskirt before I am not quite sure how the interior mechanics work.
Perhaps when my historical sewing group can meet again adjustments will be made.
Overall the additional pleated fabric and lace trim really elevated the look of the bodice.
This was a fun dress to wear. You can see it in action in THIS VIDEO.
I’ll be back tomorrow with a fun decor post.
Laura
ellen b. says
I can see why that dress was fun to wear. Looks great on you!
Susan Kellam says
The overskirt, trims & pleats really dresses up your traveling suit! As for the netting that the Truly Victorian pattern had, it might be what I read about in the Historical Sewing blog. Jennifer recommends using organza or tulle to line your overskirt to help pouf up the bustle more.