Sewing A Gunne Sax Dress

Do you remember Jessica McClintocks iconic dresses? With the rise of the fashionable cottagecore movement, these granny chic dresses are highly sought after. The revival further intensified with the passing of Jessica McClintock last February. Such a dress was at the top of the Fashionista’s most wanted list. So I began Sewing A Gunne Sax Dress.

But First A Little History

The San Fransico-based Gunne Sax label was begun in 1967 by two home sewists Carol Miller and Eleanor “Elle” Bailey. The name was a compilation of a sexy gunny sack. In early 1969 Elle Bailey bought out Carol Miller’s partnership and became sole owner of the dress company. 

 Gunny sacks were burlap bags used to transport agricultural goods. 

The name is derived from goni an Indian word from the Mangalore district in India. It simply means fiber. 

During the Depression-era, much like the flour and feed sack clothing, some brave souls created gunny sack apparel. 

Over time it grew to be used as a derogatory term such as “She looks like she’s wearing a gunny sack.”

In 1951 Marilyn Monroe posed for a now-iconic image of her wearing a potato or “gunny” sack after she was accused of wearing a cheap and vulgar-looking dress. 

In 1956 Lucy and Ethel donned their hilarious Parisian gowns. 

Gunny sacks are still beloved today. 

Jessica McClintock

In late 1969 Jessica McClintock began a partnership with Eleanor Bailey with a $5,000 investment. By 1970 she was the sole owner of the company. 

The original labels were black. They are the most sought-after dresses by collectors. 

The early 1970s dress styles drew inspiration from medieval and Renaissance fashions. 

Later on, the label changed and the look incorporated Victorian and Edwardian fashion influences.

I myself owned a dress similar to the one on the right and share it in this week’s video. (Yes, I still have it. 🙂

Gunnesaxoween

This past summer I had found a few cards/spools of vintage Gunne Sax lace. I wasn’t exactly sure what I was going to do with it. Then Gwen’s Shenanigans proposed a costumer collaboration called gunnesaxoween. 

The idea was to create a Gunne Sax-inspired garment. I was in!

Sewing A Gunne Sax Dress

I wanted to use a vintage Gunne Sax pattern to make the dress. It was Simplicity 5490.

The Fashionista selected view 1 with the added ruffle shown in view 3.

This dress pattern was a bit fiddly. I would classify it as something an intermediate sewist would want to tackle. While I am happy with how the dress came out, I do not have any plans to sew it again. 

I used three different vintage cotton and cotton/poly fabrics. I believe they were all found at estate sales.  

They seem to belong together. 

I think it is the lace that truly makes it recognizable as a Gunne Sax-inspired dress. 

We took the photos at the park on a recent perfect fall afternoon. Gracie the dachshund wanted to tag along. She loves to pose!

For some reason, she is quite skittish about crossing bridges. 

Straining to get at the kids calling to her. 

Many thanks to my gorgeous models. 

One last look. 

This Week’s Video

The Fashionista and Gracie the dachshund are the stars of this week’s video.

See you Sunday!

Laura