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Fashion· Holiday· Royal Family

Dickens Fashions for Christmas Faires

I recently typed in a search engine question “How many A Christmas Carol movies are there?” The earliest surviving screen adaptation, Scrooge, or, Marley’s Ghost, was made in 1901. There are 19 big screen adaptions and many more productions have been done for tv and the theater. This leads me to believe that many of us can somewhat relate to the selfish miser who hates Christmas but in the end, is beautifully redeemed. This I believe has led to numerous events being held all over the world celebrating this beloved story. But what should one wear to such an event? With that question, I bring you Dickens Fashions for Christmas Faires, the dress edition.

Dickens Fashions for Christmas Faires

Dickens Fashions for Christmas Faires

Writing a post about Dickens era female fashion is somewhat daunting in that the time period spans from approximately 1837 when Charles Dickens published his first novel, The Posthumous Papers of the Pickwick Club (also known as The Pickwick Papers), until his death in 1870. That is 33 years of fashion trends to cover.

Given that this was a time before high priced catwalk models and film stars shared their latest fashion finds on Instagram and red carpets one may ask, “Who set the fashion for this period”?

queen victoria and children

The answer predominately lies with one woman, Queen Victoria.

queen victoria and plaid

She became Queen the same year Dickens was first published and reigned until her passing in 1901. Thus she covered the entire Dickensian time period and went beyond with what is of course known as the Victorian Era. Many Faire attendees select their attire from fashion beyond 1870 and that is perfectly acceptable.

Portrait by Winterhalter, 1859

Queen Victoria portrait by Winterhalter

But you may say, “How can Queen Victoria have set the fashion? She wore mourning clothes for over 40 years following the passing of her beloved Prince Albert”. This is true, but her daughters, Princesses Victoria, Alice, Helena, Louise, and Beatrice,  and their families carried the torch of setting the trends.

queen victoria and plaid

I have tried to seek out fashion plates and dresses that exemplify a seasonal holiday look. Meaning winter fabrics, styles, and colors. In addition, every attempt was made to link to the original source. You may click on many of the images for further research. We will begin this fashionable journey with romantic fashions.

Romantic Fashions

Many attendees choose the romantic fashion era which occurred between the 1830’s thru the 1860’s. This look consists of big full skirts worn over hoops.

In the early period, sleeves were a bit narrow and layers of ruffles were popular.

1840s Plaid Christmas Dickens Dress

A cotton dress circa 1840.

1840's Dress

Day dress, 1860’s. I talked about the popularity of tartan HERE.

Red dress with tartan accents

Sleeves could be full, as seen in this 1865 silk walking dress.  This particular style was called “The Pagoda Sleeve”.Walking Dress 1863 The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Early Bustle Period

The early bustle period began in the late 1860’s thru the mid-1870’s.  The previous fullness in skirts moved to the back of the dress. This fullness of the fabric was drawn up in ties to create a fashionable puff.

Fashion plate 1876.

Fashion plate, 1876.

Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna of Russia, 1884, granddaughter of Queen Victoria.

Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna of Russia, 1884.

Silk taffeta dress from 1875-76

Silk walking dress

Silk walking dress back

Natural Form

Natural form fashions lasted a little over five years from 1877 thru 1882.

Fashion plate 1881.

Natural form fashion plate

The style transitioned and the skirts began to cling closely to the thighs in the front while the bustle at the back was reduced to a natural flow, thus influencing the term Natural Form, from the waist to the train of the dress.

Natural form period. Dress, ca. 1878-1883. Silk satin and voided velvet. McCord Museum, Montreal

Late Bustle

Late bustle had a six-year reign in the 80’s. The 1880’s that is. This time around the bustle would reach maximum proportions. Some skirts appeared to have a full shelf at the back of the dress.

1883 La Mode Francaise

Silk dinner dress by Mme. Grapanche circa 1884–86.

Dinner dress, Mme. Grapanche, silk, American

Here is a silk dinner gown from the mid 80’s with an understated bustle and skirt.

Ensemble, 1880s The John Bright Collection

The Belle Epoch

The Belle Epoch look spanned the 1890’s until Queen Victoria’s passing and then the reign of King Edward, her son, ushered in the Edwardian Era. It featured a feminine silhouette that continued through 1889 when skirts began to scale down and the S-curve silhouette became the rage.

Fashion plate circa 1894.

Belle Epoch fashion plate

Silk velvet and taffeta skirt and jacket, mid 80’s.

1895-1900 Day Dress, Marix Young Brothers, France; wool twill and silk velvet

Worth tea gown circa 1895

Worth tea gown

I will close this post with this circa 1894-96 silk day dress featuring fabulous gigot or leg o’ mutton sleeves and lovely accessories.

It should be noted that a ladies complete ensemble would also feature hats/bonnets, gloves, shoes, and jewelry. Not to mention, the unmentionables underneath. These items also changed with each fashion era and rightly deserve their own post which I may do if there is enough interest. This also applies to men’s fashions. If you would enjoy such a post, please leave a comment.

Of course, many of you may be wondering if I have created a Dickens costume. With that, I will leave you with a knowing smile and the promise of another fashion post next Friday.

May you be merry and bright,

Laura

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12.01.17

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All Is Calm and Cozy Bedroom »

Comments

  1. Jane says

    December 1, 2017 at 4:26 am

    Such beautiful fashions! Can you imagine how much time it took to sew them and then to get dressed? Amazing! Enjoyed your fashion tour and would be interested in seeing the “undies”, especially what held up those bustles.
    Wanted to let you know, too, Laura, that I LOVE my cute little 2017 Christmas tree ornament! Adding it to my special Decor to Adore collection!
    xo Jane

  2. jeanie says

    December 1, 2017 at 6:33 am

    Oh, this is loads of fun. Can you imagine storing all these gowns? I’m sure they didn’t have tons like we do now but still, even six or seven dressy or just regular day dresses would take up a lot of room — and those places didn’t have big closets and the wardrobes don’t look that big. You’ve found some wonderful examples and all very festive!

  3. Kristina says

    December 1, 2017 at 9:04 am

    Definitely interested in more mention of the unmentionables!

    I loved this beautiful post. How did they sit with those giant bustles?

  4. Hena Tayeb says

    December 1, 2017 at 2:24 pm

    gorgeous. though I would imagine they would be so very uncomfortable.

  5. handmade by amalia says

    December 2, 2017 at 4:48 am

    This was interesting, Lara, and so beautiful, though I’m glad I don’t have to struggle into one of these every morning. I was in London during the Christmas season a few years ago and went to a Christmas reception at Charles Dickens’ house. Some of the women were wearing this type of dress and that was the only time I’ve seen them outside period dramas or the V&A. They are so elaborate and beautifully done, a true work of art.
    Amalia
    xo

  6. Rita C at Panoply says

    December 2, 2017 at 6:14 am

    Oh my goodness, Laura, I love fashion history. The belle epoch 3/4 sleeve blue/green, the red pagoda sleeve tartan, and the red with ocelot fur (is it?) on Victoria are all killer in my opinion! I just love them. Hmmm, will you choose a Dickens dress for next year’s costuming?

  7. ellen b says

    December 2, 2017 at 2:09 pm

    It seems like there is no such thing as sitting down with some of these fashions! 🙂
    Such interesting history of dresses.

  8. Susan K. says

    December 2, 2017 at 7:58 pm

    I so enjoyed seeing the beautiful Victorian dresses. It is my favorite era of historical fashion. Have you ever been to the Texas Civil War Museum in Fort Worth? There is an amazing display of Victorian clothing there. It’s a “must-see”!

  9. Michele (Finch Rest) says

    December 3, 2017 at 6:46 pm

    So interesting!

    I love historical clothing and know these things – but it has sure been neat re-learning.

    Thanks so much and more more more is my vote!
    Hugs.

Hi, I’m Laura Ingalls Gunn

Welcome to Decor To Adore! I love flea markets, tea parties, classic literature and dachshunds.

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