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Fashion· Projects

Costume Challenge The Roaring Twenties A Duster Coat

Hello dear friends. Welcome to the 2017 Costume Challenge The Roaring Twenties A Duster Coat.

Costume Challenge The Roaring Twenties A Duster Coat

This year I have decided to create a day dress and evening dress in the 1920’s style. Mr. Decor was also game to get his Gatsby on so we’ll talk men’s fashion in a future costume challenge post. Today’s post will cover a ladies 1920’s duster coat.

Fashion Influences

The 1920’s were a time of great change. The automobile had been invented a few decades earlier but Henry Ford began mass production of his Model T in 1908. This led to a greater availability of vehicles. Cars were now financially obtainable by the everyman and not just a frivolous toy for the rich. By the 1920’s automobiles were swiftly replacing the horse and carriage as the main mode of transportation.

Women’s Suffrage

Women also began cutting or “bobbing” their hair mainly for two reasons. The first was the Women’s Suffrage Movement which resulted in the 19th Amendment to the Constitution occurring on August 18, 1920. With this Amendment, women received all the rights and responsibilities of citizenship. This included the right to vote. During the time leading up to this victory, many women cut their hair as a symbolic act. They wanted to be free from the burden and weight. Bobbing the hair was an outward sign that they would no longer be oppressed and conform to the ideals of a man.

 World War I

The second and more acceptable reason women began to cut their hair was the onset of World War I. With the men away fighting many women were employed in factories and in the field. There was a concern for hair getting caught in moving machine parts as well as the fact that the upkeep of long hair was labor intensive.

women taking on the jobs of men in World War I

 A 1917 Red Cross Motor Corp nurse.

WWI Nurse - 1917 Red Cross Motor Corp

These Three Factors Lead To Changes In Fashion

Ladies riding in open air cars wanted to protect their clothing from road dust and would cover themselves in “duster” coats. Cloche hats would not fly off while traveling in a fast moving vehicle. The close-fitting caps could easily fit on the heads of those with shorter hair should they want to disguise the fact they had bobbed hair.

Downton Abbey coat and cloche

Cloche Hats

1920s Cloche Hat

Spring and summer hats were made from straw, raffia, silk, cotton, and variety of other fabrics. The millinery embellishments included ribbon, flowers and other forms of frippery.

 antique Flapper lady's cloche hat, c1920s. Warm honey-colored straw, covered with an abundance of colorful velvet flowers with delicate composition pistils and buds. Café-au-lait velvet ribbon band, gently rolled silk-covered brim.

Winter hats were generally made of wool felt or cotton velvet.

antique flapper hat

The embroidered “feathers” are fantastic!

felt with colored felt feathers - 1920's cloche

There were even boudoir cloches worn to protect a ladies lovely “finger wave” hairstyle while sleeping.

c. 1920's Boudoir Cloche Cap of Lace with Light Yellow Silk Ribbons

So sweet!

gorgeous photo from the 1920s

I adore this image of actress Jean Arthur in a cloche hat and her amazing charm necklace.

Jean Arthur, looking darling in a cloche and 'charm necklace' (circa 1920s)

Actress, and William Randolph Hearst’s mistress, Marion Davies wearing a dreamy beaded evening cloche.

Marion Davies in beaded cloche.

The ultimate flapper girl, actress Clara Bow, wearing a cloche and boots made for walking.

Clara Bow. (colorized)

Ladies Coats

Ladies coats were a loose fitting style comfortable for long car rides. The wealthy often had a coat to match every dress. The coats were often made from a variety of sumptuous fabrics.

Winter Coats

Winter coats were often made from fur, wool, cashmere, and cotton velvet.

Vintage 1920s Velvet and Fur Cocoon Coat

Actress Loretta Young models a wool coat with fur sleeves.

Loretta Young.

Racoon was all the rage!

Fantastic coat and cloche hat on this worn by a young woman. Amsterdam c.1923

Aren’t these flappers, out for a stroll in Harlem, just fabulous?

WHEN HARLEM WAS IN VOGUE African American flappers on the streets of Harem, NY, 1920s

There were, of course, fabulous evening coats as well.

Splendid coat 1920s

Spring and Summer Coats

Middle-class ladies often had just one duster. The sport of driving was generally done in good weather given the unpredictable nature of early cars. For this reason, the dusters were generally made of long-wearing lightweight linen.

Tan duster coats

Edwardian linen coat / 1910s duster coat / Manor by DearGolden

Ladies would often add covered buttons, a scalloped hem or lovely embroidery to beautify the utilitarian garments.

Paul Poiret, circa 1920 DUST JACKET

1900 linen duster, a coat worn in early motoring days to keep a woman from being completely engulfed by road goo. (Technical term.)

white on white embroidery

The last two images above really inspired me. The charming round collar reminded me of a vintage pattern I had on hand. I just added an extra yard of fabric to the hem to create a typical duster length.

The linen was from repurposed fabric. The fabric had originally been used as kitchen curtains.

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I am not good at embroidery so I decided to use antique pieces of lace to embellish the collar and pockets.

1-IMG_7341

It was hand stitched onto the lightweight linen.

1-IMG_7384

Now I’m going to be a big tease and not show you the finished coat and cloche.

But I have a good reason. I’d like a picture of myself wearing the cloche and duster coat while posing in front of a 1920’s era automobile. That photo shoot will happen next weekend. But here’s what I’m thinking:

1920s woman in coat with automobile.

Won’t that be worth the wait?

Laura

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10.09.17

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Comments

  1. Marty Oravetz says

    October 9, 2017 at 6:25 am

    Yes it will be worth the wait. Your costumes are always so amazing.

  2. Lauren@SimplyLKJ says

    October 9, 2017 at 6:53 am

    Cannot wait to see how it turned out. You are so talented my friend.

  3. Barbara H. says

    October 9, 2017 at 8:05 am

    I can’t wait to see the photo! I loved the historical data as well. I love hats and wish they’d come back in style for general usage!

  4. Linda says

    October 9, 2017 at 10:25 am

    Beautiful post. The hair is amazing. it is great to see some of these photos. The past has some fabulous styles.

  5. Rita C at Panoply says

    October 9, 2017 at 11:06 am

    OMG I LOVE this era. Hands down, my favorite!

  6. bonnie morgan says

    October 9, 2017 at 2:37 pm

    Look forward to it. Love this post. You are so good at research.

    Excited not to have to type in my info!

  7. Hena Tayeb says

    October 9, 2017 at 2:47 pm

    So gorgeous.. can’t wait to see your costume.

  8. Botanic Bleu says

    October 9, 2017 at 4:23 pm

    Laura,
    Oh, Yes, it will be worth the wait to see you in your duster and cloche standing with a 1920s car.

    Judith

  9. jeanie says

    October 10, 2017 at 5:39 am

    It will definitely be worth the wait! I loved all the great photos and factual info and history here. I wish I’d read this before our Great Gatsby event! (I will be posting about it). Can’t wait to see the end result!

  10. Katie Mansfield says

    October 10, 2017 at 4:32 pm

    I can’t wait to see. You have been busy.

  11. Patricia Garbutt says

    October 10, 2017 at 9:17 pm

    I love your costume challenges! Can’t wait to see the finished product. Thanks for the vintage images. Such glamorous style.

    • Laura Ingalls Gunn says

      October 11, 2017 at 4:27 am

      Hi, Patricia! Thank you so very much for your kind comment! There is indeed always such lovely inspiration in vintage and antique photography and advertising.

  12. Debbie-Dabble says

    October 11, 2017 at 3:13 am

    Laura,
    Loved this post!! I have a friend who did Victorian presentation on fashion. Her name is Lisa Griffiths and went by Victoriana Lady. Her hair is down to her knees. She moved and now lives in Mass. I adore the hats but I never wear a hat however I would love to collect them!! LOL! Now the duster coats… I would wear in a heart beat and would love to have something like that come back in fashion. Did you notice how much lace is showing up in fashion over the past several years? Soon we will see it in home fashion and then maybe my Victorian style that I love will be back in style even though it never went out of style in my home!!
    Thanks so much for stopping by!!
    Hugs,
    Deb

  13. Linda Kelley says

    October 11, 2017 at 7:14 am

    Now I can see all of the post! I’m sooooo excited to see what you come up with. I know it will be divine.
    As I mentioned in my email, this is my favorite era and I would (and do) dress like this normally now! In fact, I adore the Cloche hats so much (especially since we have a convertible and they stay on my head in the wind), that I’ve been looking to increase my collection of them for normal everyday wear. 🙂 Now I just need more of the dresses from that era! Oh… and those boots!!
    Love, Linda

Hi, I’m Laura Ingalls Gunn

Welcome to Decor To Adore! I love flea markets, tea parties, classic literature and dachshunds.

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