Way back in July I traveled to California to attend Costume College. What is Costume College you ask? It is an annual three-day educational conference produced by Costumer’s Guild West, Inc. to provide educational classes, programs, and tours. Professional seamstresses, costume designers, as well as historical fashion and sewing enthusiasts come from all over the world to teach and attend this fabulous event. Friday night the theme was the 1940’s so I choose to create a costume very close to my heart. A Circa 1940’s Student Nursing Uniform.
A Circa 1940’s Student Nursing Uniform
Many longtime readers may remember my dear Grandma Jingles who was a regular fixture on DTA until her passing a few years ago. She was an amazing woman who inspired my love of antique lace, trims, buttons and more. My grandmother used these things regularly for her hobby in running a doll hospital for many years. She repaired antique dolls and sewed their clothing in the most historically accurate manner possible.
But her daytime job for over 40 years was even more special. She was an R.N. and rose to the position of the head nurse.
My grandmother was the first in her family to get a high school diploma. She was the class valedictorian and received a scholarship to nursing school at St. John in Redwing, Minnesota. But this girl of poor farmers had to work for an entire year to save up the $39 she needed to cover her uniform costs. Can you even imagine?
All In The Details
I had just a few small photos of my grandmother’s student nursing uniform. But during the many joyous visits we had, she discussed how the student nurses wore a medium blue dress with a white apron. The dress buttoned up the front with white buttons. The collar and cuffs were separately attached and made from crisp cotton poplin. After the collars and cuffs were washed and heavily starched the students would plaster them onto their dresser mirrors until they were dry. They could then be peeled off the mirror and worn immediately. Thus saving the step of ironing.
The same was done for their nursing caps. They also could be plastered flat to dry. The cap featured two buttons on the back that when folded and buttoned the cap was transformed into its iconic shape.
Underneath it all, the nurses had the option of wearing a corset or a brassiere with a new-fangled girdle with garters to hold up their white stockings. Like other stockings of the day, they featured a back seam and must be kept straight.
The Design and Patterns
Armed with this knowledge I set out to recreate my Grandmother’s student nursing uniform. I easily found the blue fabric and white buttons.
I knew that the hat, cuffs, and collar had all been purchased and not made. Scouring eBay and Etsy I found a cap but came up short for the collar and cuffs.
So I began looking for a 1940’s dress pattern that buttoned all the way up, had a collar and featured short sleeves with a cuff. After hours of research, I came across a 1950’s pattern that fit the bill. Simplicity 2184.
Overall I would classify this pattern as “intermediate” due to the collar. The instructions were well laid out but it did require patience. Particularly since I was creating a contrasting white collar and cuffs.
The apron was a bit harder.
I knew from photos that the wide straps crisscrossed in the back and buttoned onto the waistband.
My wee granny is on the right.
The closest pattern I could come up with was Butterick B5726, view B. The front was the right shape, I just had to lengthen the skirt.
But the back view required that I draft wider ties that would be crisscrossed and buttoned to the waistband as opposed to sewn on straight and then tied. I am extremely grateful to my dear friend Dartanyan who was willing to double-check my pattern drafting and math skills.
As is, the pattern would be great for a beginner. My adjustments required an intermediate level of sewing skills.
All The Accessories
I felt very blessed that my grandmother had given me the original nursing pin she received upon graduation. You can see her wearing it in her nursing photo at the top. It is also in the lower right-hand corner below.
The white stockings and square heeled oxfords I found on eBay.
Of all the costumes I wore at Costume College this was the one that made people smile.
There was another nurse, circa WWI, also in attendance. We happily chatted for several minutes and I asked several questions about her fabulous ensemble. I then asked to follow her on Instagram and when she said her name I about dropped my phone.
I was ALREADY following Constance MacKenzie, a well known British costume maker who has worked on such films as Wonder Woman and Mary Poppins Returns. Such amazing talent and NICE AS PIE!
Of everything I have ever created this simple costume is the most heartfelt. I can’t help but think that Grandma Jingles would be quite proud of my efforts.
What fabulous career did your family member have?
Laura
Marty says
Oh I love this and love the pictures of your Grandma. This nurses outfit is spectacular. I love it all.
jeanie says
Oh Laura, your Grandma Jingles would be so proud of you — not only for your exquisite work and research but for your love and the thought that you would create this in tribute to her. It’s perfect. And I really loved the vintage photos of your gran in her uniform. Clearly, she was proud of being a nurse — you can tell in the photos.
And well done, meeting Constance Mackenzie! That had to be super fun!
Dixie Lee says
My aunt became an RN circa 1949/50 and joined the Army, nursed in Korean war!
Rebeca says
Love!!!
Barbara Harper says
What a neat thing to do, with such special ties to your grandmother.
Pat M. says
Your research and sewing skills are, as always, impeccable. What always blows me away is the fact that regardless of what era your costumes represent, you yourself always look so authentic wearing them – making them not a costume at all, but making you a time traveler. I’m so impressed. And yes, your grandmother would be so very proud.
Cindy says
I wasn’t following you when Grandma Jingles was alive. I would imagine she would have a tear in her eyes. You taking the time to perfect this is so touching. You’re a very talented seamstress. I also love that she gave the pin to you to cherish.. Very moving post.
Enjoy the rest of your week
Cindy
Ann says
This was my favorite of all your costumes as well, Laura. I am struck by the close resemble of Ian to your grandmother ❤️
Ann
Lou E Gipson says
My mom was also the first in her family to graduate high school!
She also attended Nursing School graduating as an R.N.
My sister followed in her footsteps, becoming an R.N. and later graduating college with a Master’s Degree!
I always enjoy your posts!
Jeanie says
I love this post and your outfit looks just awesome on you!!
Susan K. says
You look so cute in your nurse’s uniform! What a great tribute to your grandmother.
Elizabeth says
What a wonderful tribute to your grandmother. I am amazed at your sewing talents and patience. I would love to learn to sew and I have a sewing machine but I am intimidated by it so anytime i want something sewn my mom comes for a visit and we make the stuff together, she gets the do the sewing.
Have a wonderful trip!
auntie em says
Your creations are always so amazing! You get not only the styles but the colours. accessories and details spot on. I am so amazed at your sourcing out patterns to sew by and make adjustments to. With your uniform on you could have stepped up right out of the closest hospital. It was always interesting to me how nurses worked in those aprons and dresses and undergarments all day long. They wore these in hot, muggy weather as well as freezing temperatures and in a day before there was central heat or air conditioning.
Thank you so much for sharing not only your beautiful work but also for the history lesson of what goes into them.