Our apartment was located in a section of Paris often referred to as “La Jungle”. It was disheartening to see the gang activity of tagging (spray painted markings) appearing on several lovely old buildings. After being awake for 40+ hours at 10 pm and enjoying a truly full first day in Paris I climbed onto my piece of foam supported by a plywood platform and was dreaming of a restful nights sleep. The constant stream of unmuffled motorcycles right outside my window however had other ideas. I did finally fall into a fitful slumber around 1 am only to be rudely awakened on Sunday morning at 6 am by shopkeepers throwing up their metal security gates. Welcome to Paris! May Day, May Day Day 2 in Paris.
May Day, May Day Day 2 in Paris
But this is Paris, who needs sleep? We quickly got ready, eager to see the Parisian farmers markets. Although I generally only drink tea, I decided a strong cup of coffee was in order accompanied by a delicious pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant). At 7 am the café we selected for our petit déjeuner (breakfast) was virtually deserted. I toddled over to a small table seeking a bit of weight relief for my ankle. But Non! We were informed by the barkeep that to sit we would have to pay an additional fee. (Welcome to Paris!) So we opted to remain standing at the bar on a matter of principal.
Parisian Heaven
My café au lait and pain au chocolat were small pieces of Parisian heaven. A bit of the hot liquid had spilled over onto my saucer and I ended up getting a bit of coffee on my hands. As we were leaving I reached for a single napkin to clean off with as I hadn’t originally been given one. The barkeep barked that it would be an additional fee for the paper napkin. I placed my 10c Euro piece down on the counter and gave him a bit of evil eye.
Jour de Mai
But my irritation was short lived. For on every street corner there was someone selling small bouquets of le muguet (lily of the valley) in honor of jour de Mai. The scent was intoxicating. For the French, May Day is their Labor Day. It is a day off in which people give friends and family members small bouquets for good luck and labor unions organize parades. (More on that later.) It seems that the custom of giving a le muguet bouquet was began on May 1st, 1561, when King Charles IX received lily of the valley as a good luck charm. He decided to offer a bouquet each year after to the ladies of the court. The government permits individuals and organizations to sell them free of taxation on May 1st hence the abundance of stands throughout Paris.
To Market, To Market
Off we went to the markets. Now let me say that until you have experienced a French farmers market you haven’t lived. Who knew that flowers, fruit and vegetables could be so beautifully displayed?
The French believe that in order to achieve the highest quality all plants must be given good soil that is free of artificial additives, clean water, and most importantly, time. While Americans are on a continuous quest for something that grows bigger or faster what is lost is something better.
French carrots (carotte), fresh from the field, taste better. I have never seen such a bold color in beets (betteraves). It is because they are given time to develop naturally.
Can you remember a time when a strawberry (fraises) you ate was red the whole way through? In our efforts to get our berries to market faster we sacrifice the 2 or 3 days needed for the centers to ripen to a ruby red. While I often have to add a bit of sugar to berries purchased at home these we eagerly ate straight from the container. There was also no worry that they hadn’t been given an additional washing first. They were heavenly.
The fish (le poisson) was incredibly fresh. How could I tell? Well first, there was no fishy smell and the eyes were so clear. I ate Dover sole and salmon, among many other types of seafood, like nobody’s business while I was in France.
Pivoines
Now the peonies (pivoines) almost deserve an entire post of their own. Never before have I smelled such a smell! The lush and lovely petals held a scent that was beyond anything I can describe. Yes, a single peony cost 7 Euro. Like most everything else in France, flowers and food are very expensive. But the true beauty is that the single blossom that I purchased scented an entire room. I will take one beautiful, perfectly scented bloom over an average bouquet any day.
After viewing several markets it was time to select what we wanted to have for dinner. Every true Parisian wouldn’t dream of a meal without bread. While the baguette is truly famous please give me a petit brioche. Yes, the one in front with a touch of sea salt.
How about half of a roasted chicken (poulet rôti)?
Asparagus was in season, green, white and wild. We tried it all. I wasn’t entirely wild about the wild.
Of course one must have a bit of stinky cheese (fromage) to truly finish a fine French meal.
I Love A Parade
Upon our return to the apartment in late afternoon we found the main street had been closed due to an organized labor parade. Parking in Paris is difficult at its best and an entire street closing creates even more of a challenge. We finally found a spot for our wee Ford about 15 blocks away. (Welcome to Paris!) But the payoff was a birds eye view of French organized chaos. How they love to march!
By 8 pm I was delightfully full. I took a Tylenol pm to force slumber. As I drifted off to the sweet smell of lily of the valley I was humming “I love Paris in the springtime…”
So ends day two.
Laura
what lovely photos…and the peonies? divine.
Such lovely photos! I haven't been to Paris in nearly 20 years, but hope to make it back some day. The food is so very good that you don't need a lot to satisfy. I'll take one slightly pricey pain au chocolat over a greasy diner breakfast any day of the week. Love the market pics! Thanks for sharing.
Such beautiful photos!!! :):):):):):):):):):):):):)
Your trip sounds so lovely…except for the sprained ankle and the stingy waiter. So if I ever go I shall remember to take a good sturdy pair of shoes and spare napkins in my pockets! Always good advice!
The flower and market stalls must be so amazing to experience. The aromas alone would be heavenly!
Thank you for sharing your trip!:)
Laura,
Stunning images! So interesting about the Lily of the Valley tradition. Charging for a seat and napkin? I can only imagine the cost to use the ladies room (no doubt extra for toilet paper and water/soap to wash your hands!) I am currently surrounded by acres of perfect peonies.
Was your ankle any better the second day?
Your Friend,
Deborah
Another great post! The photos of the flowers, fruits, veggies are sooo pretty.
Oh Laura Sweetie…
Thank you, thank you for taking me along to the Paris Market this morning. I loved it. The architecture there is so gorgeous. I am afraid I would be one of those tourists walking around, looking up.
The peonies were beautiful. I could smell the fragrance clear back here at home. You know Phoenix? Where napkins are free and there is no fee to sit down? Oh my goodness gracious, I had no idea. I guess one should carry napkins in their purse as well.
I can't wait to see where we go next Laura. Thank you for sharing. As always your photos and post are exquisite. Many hugs and much love, Sherry
Lovely photos though I'm quite sure I would not easily tolerate the rudeness of the shop owner – I just don't go for that kind of attitude. And I must say that the Peonies and Lilies of the Valley that I grow right in my own yard are just as lovely. 😉
Still, Paris. The only way I can imagine ever going there is if we met up with my dear, lifelong, French friend and her family and she would give us a personal tour. Still, I doubt we're ever going to make it out of this country. I'm just too cheap to spend the money on flights and I hate flying.
Looking forward to more of your stories and photos.
🙂
So interesting Laura…for us that have never experienced this…what is a Euro worth?
That cafe worker made me mad! A charge for a paper napkin? I would have used the insides of my pockets! You're photos are beautiful! The one with the vegetables made me want to eat carrots, and I'm not a big carrot fan. They just looked so sweet and delicious!
I feel like I am right there with you when I read your posts! Eager for more! Merci!
Bonjour Laura,
SO sorry about the ankle, the cobblestones around here can be…challenging! SO glad you and Andrea got into the flea market groove. I think you may have had a bit of rain when you first arrived..I was thinking of you both traisping around the city!
ANxious to read the continuing adventures…
Hope your foot is fine now,
Mimi
I forgot to ask, where on earth did you find that waiter? What a stinker. Never had that happen here ever! Perhaps la crise…
So, it's a love, hate relationship with Paris.
I now don't know if I'd want to visit. I was in Italy, and it was so easy. Tuscany is tourist friendly.
But, thanks so much for the bird's eye view of the City of Lights. I'm hungry ,now, and I just had breakfast.
Hehe, you experienced what we are (unfortunately) used to! Everything is overpriced and people are often rude. I sooo looove America!;))
Sending hugs,
Monica xo
HI LAURA!!!
OH AM I IN TROUBLE, first you have to PAY for a seat at a table????NO WAY… you just bought something to eat and a napkin????I just might lose my patience and become one of those nasty Americans they hate!!!But that is ridiculous!!!!Oh my, I better warn my hubby now!!!!!
I love your story telling, I just read day 1 and 2 right now, I will keep up now!!
Get some sleep
I will be resting up to prepare for NO sleep days!!!
hugs,
jamie
Laura so sorry to be remiss! I am loving your and Andrea's accounts of this most fabulous trip!!
Thank you for sharing so many photos with us.
xoxo
Karena
Art by Karena
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Laura, this is my favorite one of your Paris posts! I could almost smell and taste it all. Sounds like you had such fun and a great time overall. Ann
Your writing is marvelous–I enjoy the little tidbits of information and your impressions of such a special place. Your posts are very vivid and enjoyable. So nice to live through your experiences.