A little over a week ago I attended a Laura Ingalls Wilder event. Prairie Days in Independence, Kansas. I’ve been wanting to make something new to wear. Here is Inspiration For An 1880’s Calico Bustle Dress and Bonnet.
Inspiration For An 1880’s Calico Bustle Dress and Bonnet
We often think of the look below when visualizing a bustle backed gown. Layers upon layers of frothy silk taffeta, velvet, and lace. The dress/gown generally consisted of three separate pieces: a bodice, underskirt, and bustled overskirt.
But the look above was for the very wealthy. Silk was not often an affordable or practical choice for those living out west. Cotton was a much better choice for hot prairie days.
But even this look was a little much for a pioneer woman. Can you imagine wearing white with all that dirt!
Pioneer women that had money often would create three separate pieces and embellish them with beautiful lace, brocade ribbon…
…and ruffles.
More than one fabric could be used to create a mix and match type of look.
But many pioneer women needed a simpler, lightweight, and much more cost-effective look.
A bodice with one single skirt was worn. It perhaps would have the addition of some asymmetrical draping as opposed to a true overskirt.
The bustle look could still be somewhat achieved through pleating, poufs and /or padding and bustle cages that were worn underneath.
Given the limited financial means of the Ingalls family, I imagine that while Mary and Laura loved looking at the fine fashion plates in Godey’s Lady Book the reality would be that Ma would sew a simpler version of the fashion to wear to church and other public events.
This was the look I wanted to achieve. But perhaps with a bodice that featured 3/4 length sleeves and a square neckline like the style shown in the first photo.
I thought a shorter sleeve and an open neck would be cooler on a summer day.
So dreamy.
I could always add a bit of lace at the neckline for modesty.
A Purple Bonnet
The calico fabric I had purchased for the ensemble had a gold vine print accented with purple flowers and soft green leaves. I wanted to bring out the purple and thought a matching bonnet would be fetching.
But was there such a thing as a purple bonnet?
Oh indeed. I loved this velvet example accented with ostrich feathers.
This was the perfect shade of purple that I was thinking of.
But thinking again cost wise and longterm wearability I imagine that Caroline Ingalls would probably wear a straw bonnet during the warm prairie summers. Thankfully I found a faded purple straw bonnet. My vision existed.
Now I would just need to create everything. On an Ingalls budget.
Come back tomorrow for the reveal.
Laura
I always love reading these posts, as I was a huge fan of the books and tv show. My girls too adored them when they were younger. I miss those wholesome family shows!
Oh I am sure yours is totally amazing. You are such an accomplished and beautiful seamstress and your designs are always stunning.
If anyone can create a replica of a garment (or anything), it’s you! I appreciate all the details that you share with us, of the construction of bustle dresses and bonnets. I didn’t realize that most were separate pieces. Looking forward to your design and creations
I love how you approach design. I can’t wait to see the finished piece!
Looking forward to this! I love the simpler look which just happens to be the more cost-effective look.
I think that’s a great idea to go with shorter sleeves and more open at the neck.
I appreciate how you thought this through and knew that prairie women wouldn’t have owned many dresses and would certainly have taken the environment into account when they made a new dress. Because of the work involved in keeping a good dress clean, I think that would have been uppermost in their minds. I found the dress with the two different fabrics fascinating. Previously, I thought this was a modern trend, but I guess it is true that everything we do has been done before. Except for the bustle, I can’t imagine that fashion ever being back in fashion. I went to an auction in Iowa once where nothing had been thrown out for 100+ years. I bought two women’s parasols with lilac silk lining. They were possibly used during the mourning protocol. That got me to thinking how important a parasol would have been driving to town in a wagon. Whether going to church on Sunday or going shopping, their bodies would have been exposed to the rain and sun without an umbrella. I wonder what they used for deodorant or was a dressed washed and ironed after one hot summer trip to town?
wow.. I look forward to the reveal.. I’m certain you will create something marvelous.
http://www.henatayeb.blogspot.com
Wow. Love the way you researched to find the perfect application for the House on the Prairie. Straw and cotton vs. velvet and silk. I always enjoy your posts on fashion history and am looking forward to the reveal. Purple is a gorgeous color.