Today’s post is over two years in the making. I cannot even begin to tell you how excited I am to share Nellie Oleson’s Silk Polonaise Dress.
What’s The Big Idea
As many longtime readers are aware I began seriously sewing a little over three years ago. I had begun volunteering at the Farmers Branch Historical Park here in D/FW as well as at the Little House on the Prairie museum site in Independence, Kansas. As a result, I wanted to dress in a more authentic manner. This was also about the time that I joined the D/FW Costumers Guild and the Time Travelers Sewing Guild.
Then two years ago as I was driving home from a Little House event a BIG idea flickered in my brain.
Wouldn’t it be fun to recreate some of the clothing that Laura Ingalls Wilder so vividly described in her Little House books?
I quickly pushed the thought out of my mind. I wasn’t qualified or good enough to take on such a monumental task. Months passed by. The idea would regularly rear up but self-doubt would smash it down again.
Why Not Me?
But eventually, I began to consider, “Why not me?” After all, I was enthusiastic and willing.
I pondered if any of the pioneering characters in the Little House books were dress historians or fashion academics that possessed a doctorate in needlework.
Nope, they were simply just brave souls making do with what they had.
So I started with calico aprons and sunbonnets. Then went on to skirts, blouses, and more.
Siren’s Song
But one dress above all others in the books kept calling out to me.
“She wore a fawn-colored dress made with a polonaise. Deep pleated ruffles were around the bottom of the skirt, around her neck, and falling from the edges of the wide sleeves. At her throat was a full jabot of lace.” ~ Little Town on the Prairie, page 129.
Illustration by the amazing Garth Williams.
Baby Steps
I kept putting off the making of the dress.
It required skills I just didn’t have.
Yet I continued to research the styles of the Natural Form Era.
I even made a wearable mockup of A Natural Form Era Dress that was similar in style to Nellie’s dress. (The patterns are listed in this post.)
One day I finally decided it was now or never!
A gorgeous shot silk fabric with a lovely drape came to me secondhand. I was terrified to cut even a single pattern piece out. But I did it!
I quickly decided to flatline the fabric with a vintage cotton bedsheet found at an estate sale. Sewing French seams helped to control the furious fraying.
The garment was constructed with both machine and hand sewing. ALL of the pleated trim was done by hand. #hoursanddays
Time and time again I returned to historical research to assist me with the design. Even the simple lace jabot was only carefully handcrafted after spending days viewing hundreds of extant styles.
The dress required specific foundation garments that also had to be created.
Nellie Oleson’s Silk Polonaise Dress
Love does indeed live in the details.
I can’t even begin to believe that this vision that has lived for so long in my mind is now real.
Many thanks to the Farmers Branch Historical Park for allowing me to photograph my darling daughter in their schoolhouse.
After all, a schoolroom is where Nellie wore her dress.
Persevere To Publish
For the past two years, I have often worked 7 days a week, 10-12 hours a day researching, writing, sewing, photographing, and editing well over 30 Little House-inspired garments. I can’t even begin to tell you how supportive my family has been during this endeavor.
I am so thankful for friends in the sewing community who have offered amazing advice on historical sewing techniques, tips, and tricks.
Now the difficult task of finding a publisher lies before me. (I would prefer not to self-publish.)
But because so many others have believed in me I now believe in myself. I have faith that this book will be published.
I hope you enjoy this week’s video.
If you wish to view the video in a larger format just click on the black box in the lower left hand corner that says Watch on YouTube.
I’d love to hear if you have a favorite description of clothing from the Little House books.
Laura
Beautiful! I always love hearing the stories behind your creations. And I love the idea of your publishing a book about your Little House clothing! I think it would be a great success!
This is absolutely gorgeous! You have a gift and I can’t wait for your book. I’ve always imagined the clothing described in the books, this brings it to life. The chapters in These Happy Golden Years where Laura is describing the clothes (and hats) she and Ma are making are some of my favorites because it seemed so decadent after the trials of The Long Winter. Laura was finally enjoying the spoils of her hard work after ensuring Mary had what she needed for college and helping Pa. Look forward to seeing the rest!
What a beautiful dress. A true labour of love. Your book idea sounds fabulous, and I hope you find a publisher. I remember Laura handsewing buttonholes and learning to do them very quickly because she hated them so much, and then discovered that Ma also hated making them. Oh, and the calico curtains that went up in every house. And Laura being married in the black dress that Ma made because they didn’t want Almanzo’s family to arrive and take over the wedding preparations. So many wonderful stories.
This dress is the most beautiful one I’ve seen. I’ve read all of the Little House books over and over. I read them to my students over 33 years of students.
You are absolutely amazing! And, an inspiration to everyone who hopes to see their dreams fulfilled! I am always impressed by the sheer amount of sewing that you accomplish. Once again, you have created a beautiful, historical rendition of Nellie’s gown, and brought the past to life.
Oh Laura, this dress is so gorgeous! I love the slight sheen to the silk – I agree with Wendy that it is the MOST beautiful creation yet, although I am sure many more are in the future. I so admire your pluck and perseverance to the end! Lou is the picture of perfection! I am certain your book will be successful as well!
What more can I say. You are an amazing artist. Thank you for recreating this dress. I have always bern interested in the Brown Poplin.
The idea of a LIW clothing book by LIG is a great one. Editors and agents take note!
Laura,
The dress is just beautiful . You must contact the folks working on the Little House reboot. You will be perfect as the
clothing designer. The attention to detail is amazing.
This is absolutely stunning. I was just re-reading “Little Town” and the LONG description of the creation of Mary’s best dress before she goes to college. Most of it may as well be written in another language as far as I’m concerned (I know nothing of sewing), and I was wishing I could see what it really must have looked like. Hint hint.
Laura, OUTSTANDING! The details are just wonderful, the handwork so worth it. The laces on the jabot are beautiful, and I love how you layered the different pieces. I enjoyed hearing your details too (about the pleating foot bargain and why it was a bargain). Excellent work. I remembering when I was sewing a lot, I used to love challenging myself with Butterick advance patterns (a Betsey Johnson one particular stands out as a favorite peplum top I made). Your hours of detail on the pleats reminds me of cutting a diamond hemline on multi-layered tulle of a long tutu. It was so hard! It looks as though your previous projects of undergarments have also served in this project! What a symphony. Congratulations on your work, and I feel confident for you that you will find a publisher, perhaps an academic university’s publisher? Don’t stop!
Absolutely gorgeous!! And so table book worthy. You are so needed and valuable in the costuming and historical world!
Laura, this is just exquisite, Every detail is perfect. I especially love the medallions on the back — such a perfect detail. Oh, I must check out your video, but I have to say I am so very proud of you. Every stitch made with love and care, taking hours to do, working with fine materials. And then your book. Oh, I’m thrilled for that and I will eagerly await its publication!
You are amazing! The dress is gorgeous (as well as the model)!
Absolutely beautiful! I also look forward to your book. One thought always comes to mind reading about the dress Nellie wore in that chapter: How impractical that color and material must have been in that place! They had no paced roads and constant wind blowing….dust would have been everywhere. It’s a beautiful dress though……and after seeing photos of the actual girls, she would have looked beautiful in it.
Did you happen to make the dress they made for Mary when she left for college?
This dress is beautiful! I love all the pleated details and the story behind it. Truly a labor of love. All the applause to you!
Great job! I would have to say the dress that Ma wore to the Sugaring Dance at Grandpa’s. Didn’t the buttons remind Laura of blackberries? I wonder how hard it would be to find material with the prints they talk about?